Another vestige of British railway engineering fades into oblivion

Never has the 49km Punalur-Shencotta metre gauge railway track seen such a heavy rush as during the three days from 18th to 20th September 2010. The reason was simple. Come September 21, and 107 year old British built rail track through the scenic and densely wooded Western Ghats would be closed for conversion into a broad gauge line. It would be the end of another era.

The first stretch of the 91km Kollam-Shencotta track reaching up to Punalur had been converted to broad gauge earlier. Punalur is one of the few stations in India that has both meter gauge and broad gauge tracks. Conversion of the Punalur-Shencotta section is expected to be completed in two years. The existing track was laid by the British way back in 1903 to transport crops like pepper and other spices to the erstwhile state of Madras from Kollam. More lately the track was being used to transport goods in the opposite direction, namely to bring vegetables from Tamilnadu to Kollam.

The Kollam-Shencotta route was one I had never travelled on before, and not wanting to wait till the gauge conversion works got finished, I made my way to Punalur and wriggled myself into the train along with hundreds of other rail enthusiasts who wanted to be a part of the historical journey.

When the train pulled out of the station at 8:45 a.m. with seven coaches, there were more people on it than in it. Many were standing on parts of the engine, squeezing themselves into any bit of space they could find to plant their feet on. Scores had clambered onto the roof of the train from where they could watch the passing sights unobstructed, while others made the entire three-hour journey hanging onto the steel bars on either side of the compartment doors. A few even did the entire trip standing on the connecting link between the coaches. Where else would you find such sights than in incredible India! The ride across the Thenmala range through dark tunnels, across valleys and over the magnificent 13 Arch Bridge at Kazhuthurutti was truly breathtaking.

Returning to Punalur by the same train, I checked into a small nondescript lodge. Punalur is a hilly town and a municipality in Kollam district of Kerala state. It was a famous trading centre during the Travancore period. It rose to a township when it became the headquarters of Pathanapuram taluk (county).

To connect Punalur with the Tamil region on the other side of Kallada River, the British constructed the Punalur Suspension Bridge. Designed and built by British engineer Albert Henry in 1877, this 400 ft. long structure was the first suspended-deck type bridge in south India. A parallel bridge was constructed in 1972 to accommodate increasing vehicular traffic, relegating the Punalur Suspension Bridge to the status of a structure of archaeological interest.

Punalur has several interesting sites to be seen including the Thenmala eco-tourism village, the Palaruvi waterfalls, Butterfly Safari, the Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary and the Courtallam waterfalls.

On your next holiday to Kerala deviate a little from the routine tourist trail to explore places like Punalur. Call the Kerala Travel Centre to create a customized itinerary for you that includes off-beat places like these.

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